Former stamping grounds of some of history's most famous seafarers, the Virgin Islands are now invaded by thousands of visitors who arrive daily by cruise ship and plane from Miami and Puerto Rico. These green, hilly islands, some governed by the United States and some by Great Britain, number about 100 in all. Most are tiny and virtually uninhabited, except for a few birds or an adventurous boating party stopping off for a little snorkeling or swimming. For the ultimate tropical getaway, it's possible to rent an entire island for yourself.

Most Virgin Islands natives are descendants of African slaves who worked the sugar-cane plantations. In recent years, the local population has swelled with an influx of "down islanders" -- people from other Caribbean islands. Many Puerto Ricans have also come here (it's only 30 min. by air); they are joined by a wide cross section of mainland Americans, including well-heeled yachties and young expats who've become addicted to the limin' lifestyle. The old ways of the islands are all but gone in bustling St. Thomas and St. Croix, but they may still be found in St. John and some pockets of the British Virgins, especially on laid-back Virgin Gorda. Below, you'll find the highlights of this quintessential vacation paradise.

Many Caribbean islands only have rocky beaches or beaches made of black volcanic sand (which heats up fast in the noonday sun), but those in the Virgin Islands are known for their fine white sand. Best of all, every beach in the Virgin Islands is free (except for Magens Bay in St. Thomas) and open to the public, although in some cases you'll have to walk across the grounds of a resort (or arrive by private boat) to reach them.

Many hotels in the Virgin Islands will help you plan your wedding, doing everything from arranging the flowers and the photographer to applying for the marriage license. But even if you don't actually tie the knot here, the Virgin Islands offer some of the world's most romantic destinations for honeymooning couples (or those who just want to pretend they're honeymooning).

Although there are tranquil retreats on St. Croix, and even on St. Thomas, you'll find most of the remote oases on St. John and in the British Virgin Islands.

If you're a serious party animal, you'll want to avoid St. John and most places in the British Virgin Islands, and concentrate on St. Thomas and St. Croix. Below are the latest hot spots:

The islands of St. Croix, St. John, and St. Thomas are among the finest places to snorkel in the Caribbean. Because of their historic shipwreck sites, the B.V.I. contain some of the best diving in the Caribbean, but their snorkeling spots can't quite compare to those in the U.S.V.I. Here are some of the best spots:

Before you leave home, try to check out the price of comparable items you hope to buy; that way, you'll know if you are really getting a bargain or not. With that said, your best deals will most likely be found in the following categories:

The islands previewed below are the sites of the most shopping, hotels, restaurants, attractions, and nightlife, and are the most frequently visited. A few words about islands that aren't mentioned below: For those who want to avoid the masses, the British Virgin Islands have a number of escapist-friendly islands such as Peter Island, Mosquito Island, and Guana Island. These are virtually private hideaways, often with expensive resorts (which are the main reason for going there in the first place). Two remote British Virgin Islands with more democratically priced hotels are Anegada and Jost Van Dyke. Even if you're staying at a resort on Virgin Gorda or Tortola, you might want to join a boat excursion to visit some of the lesser-known islands as part of a sightseeing excursion (with time devoted to R&R on a nearly deserted beach, of course).

St. Thomas -- The most developed of the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. Thomas resembles a small city at times. There are peaceful retreats here, but you must seek them out. The harbor at Charlotte Amalie, the capital, is one of the largest cruise-ship magnets in the Caribbean. Many locals try to avoid Charlotte Amalie when the greatest concentration of vessels is in port (usually Dec-Apr). Charlotte Amalie offers the widest selection of duty-free shopping in the Caribbean. However, you must browse carefully through the labyrinth of bazaars to find the real bargains.

St. Thomas, like most of the Virgin Islands, gives you plenty of opportunity to get outside and get active, although many visitors come here simply to sit, sun, and maybe go for a swim. Magens Bay Beach, with its tranquil surf and sugar-white sand, is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, but it is likely to be packed, especially on heavy cruise-ship days. More-secluded beaches include Secret Harbour and Sapphire Beach in East End.

St. Thomas has only one golf course, Mahogany Run, but it's a real gem. The three trickiest holes (13, 14, and 15) are known throughout the golfing world as the "Devil's Triangle."

Yachts and boats anchor at Ramada Yacht Haven Marina in Charlotte Amalie and at Red Hook Marina on the island's somewhat isolated eastern tip, though the serious yachting crowd gathers at Tortola in the British Virgin Islands. Sport fishers angle from the American Yacht Harbor at Red Hook. The island also attracts snorkelers and scuba divers -- there are many outfitters offering equipment, excursions, and instruction. Kayaking and parasailing also draw beach bums away from the water's edge.

St. Thomas has the most eclectic and sophisticated restaurant scene in the Virgin Islands. Emphasis is on French and Continental fare, but the wide selection of restaurants also includes options from Mexican, West Indian, and Italian to Asian and American. St. Thomas pays more for its imported (usually European) chefs and secures the freshest of ingredients from mainland or Puerto Rican markets.

There's also a wide variety of accommodations on St. Thomas, from the small, historic Hotel 1829 in Charlotte Amalie, to more modern beachfront complexes in the East End, including the manicured Elysian Beach Resort. Apartment and villa rentals abound, and you can also find a handful of old-fashioned B&B-style guesthouses.

St. John -- Our favorite of the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John has only two deluxe hotels, but you'll find several charming inns and plenty of campgrounds. The island's primary attraction is the U.S. Virgin Islands National Park, which covers more than half the island. Guided walks and safari bus tours are available to help you navigate the park, which is full of pristine beaches, secret coves, flowering trees, and ghostly remains of sugar-cane plantations. An extensive network of trails invites hiking. A third of the park is underwater. Trunk Bay, which also boasts the island's finest beach, has an amazing underwater snorkeling trail. As you can imagine, scuba diving is another major attraction on St. John.

St. John has a handful of posh restaurants, as well as a number of colorful, West Indian eateries. Many residents and long-term visitors like to bring ingredients over on the ferry from St. Thomas, where prices are lower and the selection is broader. Nightlife isn't a major attraction here; it usually consists of sipping rum drinks in a bar in Cruz Bay, and maybe listening to a local calypso band. After spending a day outdoors, most visitors on St. John are happy to turn in early.

St. Croix -- This island is the second-most-visited destination in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Like St. Thomas, St. Croix is highly developed. Cruise-ship passengers continue to flood Frederiksted and the capital, Christiansted, looking for duty-free goods and a handful of white sand to take home in a plastic bag. St. Croix is also the only island that has a casino, which is beginning to attract a new kind of tourist. Although parts of the island resemble American suburbia, some of St. Croix's true West Indian-style buildings have been preserved, along with many of its rich cultural traditions.

One of the best reasons to take a trip to St. Croix, even if only for a day, is to visit Buck Island National Park, just 1 1/2 miles off St. Croix's northeast coast. The park's offshore reef attracts snorkelers and divers from around the world. Signs posted along the ocean floor guide you through a forest of staghorn coral swarming with flamboyant fish.

St. Croix is the premier golfing destination in the Virgin Islands, mainly because it boasts Carambola, the archipelago's most challenging 18-hole course. St. Croix is also a tennis mecca of sorts: The Buccaneer Hotel has some of the best courts in the Virgin Islands and hosts several annual tournaments. Other sports for active vacationers include horseback riding, parasailing, sport fishing, and water-skiing.

The restaurants on St. Croix are not as good as those on St. Thomas, although they claim to be. You will find plenty of small, local eateries serving up dishes and snacks ranging from West Indian curries to French croissants. Life after dark is mostly confined to a handful of bars in Christiansted.

As for accommodations, St. Croix has only a few real luxury hotels, but there are a lot of small, attractive inns (we highly recommend Pink Fancy). And, as on St. Thomas, it's easy to find villas and condos for rent at reasonable weekly rates.

Tortola -- Tortola is the hub of the British Virgin Islands, but not always the best place for visitors, especially if you're planning to spend more than a couple of days here; we think Virgin Gorda has better hotels and restaurants. Road Town, the capital, with its minor shopping, routine restaurants, and uninspired architecture, requires a couple of hours at the most. Once you leave Road Town, however, you'll find Tortola more alluring. The island's best and most unspoiled beaches, including Smuggler's Cove (with its collection of snorkeling reefs), lie at the island's western tip. Tortola's premier beach is Cane Garden Bay, a 2.4km (1 1/2-mile) stretch of white sand. Because of the gentle surf, it's one of the safest places for families with small children. For hikers on Tortola, exploring Sage Mountain National Park, where trails lead to a 543m (1,781-ft.) peak that offers panoramic views, is a definite highlight. The park is rich in flora and fauna, from mamey trees to mountain doves.

Although many visitors to the Caribbean look forward to fishing, hiking, horseback riding, snorkeling, and surfing, what makes Tortola exceptional is boating. It is the boating center of the British Virgin Islands, which are among the most cherished sailing territories on the planet. The island offers some 100 charter yachts and 300 bareboats, and its marina and shore facilities are the most up-to-date and extensive in the Caribbean Basin.

The crystal-clear waters compensate for the island's lackluster bars and restaurants. You can count on simple and straightforward food here; we suggest any locally caught fish grilled with perhaps a little lime butter.

Virgin Gorda -- Our favorite British Virgin Island is Virgin Gorda, the third-largest member of the archipelago, with a permanent population of about 1,400 lucky souls. Many visitors come over just for a day to check out the Baths, an astounding collection of gigantic rocks, boulders, and tide pools on the southern tip. Crafted by volcanic pressures millions of years ago, the boulders have eroded into shapes reminiscent of a Henry Moore sculpture. With more than 20 uncrowded beaches, the best-known of which are Spring Beach and Trunk Beach, Virgin Gorda is a sun worshiper's dream come true.

Unlike Tortola, Virgin Gorda has some of the finest hotels in the Virgin Islands, including Little Dix Bay and Biras Creek. One caveat: You must be willing to pay a high price for the privilege of staying at one of these regal resorts. There are also more reasonably priced places to stay, such as Old Yard Village. Outside the upscale hotels, restaurants tend to be simple places serving local West Indian cuisine. No one takes nightlife too seriously on Virgin Gorda, so there isn't very much of it.

Dining in the Virgin Islands is generally more expensive than it is in North America because, except for locally caught seafood, many of the ingredients have to be imported. This also means that sometimes they aren't as fresh as they could be. Whenever possible, stick to regional food, which is fresher.

Overall, the food on the islands is better than ever. Many fine talents, including some top-notch chefs, now cook here. These chefs often combine mainland recipes with local ingredients to come up with a Caribbean/American cuisine. Try to eat at some of the local places as well. The prices there are more reasonable, and the fare is more adventurous.

Tipping -- A 10% to 15% service charge is automatically added to most restaurant tabs. If the service has been good, you should tip a bit extra.

What to Wear -- In some of the posh resorts, such as Caneel Bay on St. John, it is customary for men to wear a jacket, but in summer, virtually no establishment requires it. If in doubt, always ask the restaurant beforehand. At the better places, women's evening attire is casual-chic. During the day it is proper to wear something over your bathing suit if you're in a restaurant.

Reservations -- Check to see if reservations are required before heading out to eat. In summer, you can almost always get in, but in winter, all the tables may be taken at some of the famous but small places.

Area Code -- The area code for the U.S.V.I. is 340; in the B.V.I., it's 284. You can dial direct from North America; from outside North America, dial 001, plus the number for the U.S.V.I., and 011-44 plus the number for the B.V.I.

Currency -- U.S. currency is used in both the U.S. and the British Virgin Islands.

Customs -- What You Can Bring Into the U.S.V.I. Every visitor more than 21 years of age may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is altogether forbidden to bring into the country foodstuffs (particularly fruit, cooked meats, and canned goods) and plants (vegetables, seeds, tropical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (tel. 202/927-1770; www.customs.ustreas.gov).

What You Can Bring Into the B.V.I. Visitors to the B.V.I. can bring in food, with the exception of meat products that are not USDA-approved. Visitors can bring up to $10,000 in currency and 1 liter of alcohol per person.

What You Can Take Home from the Virgin Islands: U.S. Residents: Upon return to the mainland U.S. from the U.S.V.I., residents are entitled to $1,600 worth of duty-free exports every 30 days -- that's three times the exemption allowed from most foreign destinations. One way to get the most out of your duty-free allowance is to send gifts home. You can ship up to $100 worth of unsolicited gifts per day without paying duty, although you do have to declare such gifts on your Customs form when leaving the islands.

Family members traveling together can make joint declarations. For a husband and wife with two children, the exemption in the U.S. Virgin Islands is $4,000.

Unsolicited gifts worth up to $200 per day can be sent from the U.S. Virgin Islands to friends and relatives, and they do not have to be declared as part of your $1,600 duty-free allowance. Gifts mailed from the British Virgin Islands cannot exceed $50 per day.

U.S. citizens can bring back 5 liters of liquor duty-free, plus an extra liter of rum (including Cruzan rum) if one of the bottles is produced in the Virgin Islands. Goods made on the island are also duty-free, including perfume, jewelry, clothing, and original paintings; however, if the price of an item exceeds $25, you must be able to show a certificate of origin.

Be sure to collect receipts for all purchases in the Virgin Islands, and beware of merchants offering to give you a false receipt -- he or she might be an informer to U.S. Customs. Also, keep in mind that any gifts received during your stay must be declared.

For the most up-to-date specifics on what you can bring back from the B.V.I. and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go"). Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: From the B.V.I., U.K. citizens can bring back (duty free) 200 cigarettes (250 grams of tobacco), 2 liters wine, 1 liter strong liquor, 60cc perfume, and £145 of goods and souvenirs. Amounts larger are subject to tax.

For further information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Driving Rules -- In both the U.S.V.I. and the B.V.I., you must drive on the left.

Electricity -- The electrical current in the Virgin Islands is the same as on the U.S. mainland: 110 volts AC, 60 cycles.

Embassies & Consulates -- There are no embassies or consulates in the Virgin Islands. If you have a passport issue, go to the local police station, which in all islands is located at the center of government agencies. Relay your problem to whomever is at reception, and you'll be given advice about which agencies can help you.

Emergencies -- Call tel. 911.

Etiquette and Customs -- Unlike in some parts of the Caribbean, nudity is frowned upon throughout the U.S.V.I. and B.V.I. and is punishable by law. Even though it's an offense, standards are more relaxed in the U.S.V.I.

Hitchhiking -- In the B.V.I., travel by thumb is illegal; in the U.S.V.I., it isn't illegal, but it isn't widely practiced. We don't recommend it anywhere.

Internet Access -- There is limited Internet access on the major islands in the Virgin Islands chain, including St. Thomas (which has the best), St. Croix, St. John, Tortola, and Virgin Gorda. On some of the more remote islands, you may be completely out of luck. Many visitors log on at their hotel. Costs in general are about $2 to $5 per half-hour.

Liquor Laws -- You must be 21 years of age or older to purchase liquor at a store or in a restaurant in both the U.S. and British V.I.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Newspapers & Magazines -- Daily U.S. newspapers are flown into St. Thomas, St. Croix, Tortola, and Virgin Gorda.

Passports -- For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov (click on "Applications and Forms" under "Passports" on the homepage). To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information. You do not need a passport to enter the U.S.V.I.; you do need a passport to enter the B.V.I.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk. If you are a citizen of the U.K. and you are only visiting the British Virgin Islands, you still need a passport.

Pets -- To bring your pet to the U.S.V.I., you must have a health certificate from a mainland veterinarian and show proof of vaccination against rabies. Very few hotels allow animals, so check in advance. If you're strolling with your dog through the national park on St. John, you must keep it on a leash. Pets are not allowed at campgrounds, picnic areas, or on public beaches. Both St. Croix and St. Thomas have veterinarians listed in the Yellow Pages.

Your dog or cat is permitted entry into the B.V.I. without quarantine if accompanied by an Animal Health Certificate issued by the Veterinary Authority in your country of origin. This certificate has a number of requirements, including a guarantee of vaccination against rabies.

Police -- Dial tel. 911 for emergencies.

Radio & TV -- St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix all receive cable and commercial TV stations. Radio weather reports can be heard at 8:30am and 7:30pm on 99.5 FM.

The B.V.I. have two local FM stations with nonstop music, including Z-HIT (94.3) and Z-WAVE (97.3). There's one local TV station and one cable station.

Time Zone -- The Virgin Islands are on Atlantic Standard Time, which is 1 hour ahead of Eastern Standard Time. However, the islands do not observe daylight saving time, so in the summer, the Virgin Islands and the East Coast of the U.S. are on the same time. In winter, when it's 6am in Charlotte Amalie, it's 5am in Miami; during daylight saving time it's 6am in both places.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.)

U.S. Passport Agency tel. 202/647-0518

U.S. Center for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline: tel. 404/332-4559

Visas -- Visitors to the U.S. Virgin Islands from other nations should have a U.S. visa; those visitors may also be asked to produce an onward ticket. In the British Virgin Islands, visitors who stay for less than 6 months don't need a visa if they possess a return or onward ticket. For information about U.S. visas go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://usembassy-australia.state.gov/consular.

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 0891/200-290) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at www.usembassy.org.uk.

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of the USA Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Dublin 4, Ireland (tel. 353/1-668-8777), or by checking the "Consular Services" section of the website at http://dublin.usembassy.gov.

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/472-2068), or get the information directly from the website at http://wellington.usembassy.gov.

Water -- Most visitors drink the local tap water with no harmful aftereffects. Those with more delicate stomachs might want to stick to bottled water.

Climate

Sunshine is practically an everyday affair in the Virgin Islands. Temperatures climb into the 80s (high 20s Celsius) during the day, and drop into the more comfortable 70s (low 20s Celsius) at night. Winter is generally the dry season in the islands, but rainfall can occur at any time of the year. You don't have to worry too much, though -- tropical showers usually come and go so quickly you won't even really notice. If you're out exploring for the day, you may want to bring rain gear.

Hurricanes -- The hurricane season, the dark side of the Caribbean's beautiful weather, officially lasts from June to November. The Virgin Islands chain lies in the main pathway of many a hurricane raging through the Caribbean, and the islands are often hit. If you're planning a vacation in hurricane season, stay abreast of weather conditions. It may pay to get trip-cancellation insurance because of the possibility of hurricanes.

Islanders certainly don't stand around waiting for a hurricane to strike. Satellite forecasts generally give adequate warning to both residents and visitors. And of course, there's always prayer: Islanders have a legal holiday in the third week of July called Supplication Day, when they ask to be spared from devastating storms. In late October, locals celebrate the end of the season on Hurricane Thanksgiving Day.

The High Season & The Off Season

High season (or winter season) in the Virgin Islands, when hotel rates are at their peak, runs roughly from mid-December to mid-April. However, package and resort rates are sometimes lower in January, as a tourist slump usually occurs right after the Christmas holidays. February is the busiest month. If you're planning on visiting during the winter months, make reservations as far in advance as possible.

Off season begins when North America starts to warm up, and vacationers, assuming that temperatures in the Virgin Islands are soaring into the 100s (30s Celsius), head for less tropical local beaches. However, it's actually quite balmy year-round in the Virgin Islands -- thanks to the fabled trade winds -- with temperatures varying little more than 5° between winter and summer.

There are many advantages to off-season travel in the Virgin Islands. First, from mid-April to mid-December, hotel rates are slashed a startling 25% to 50%. Second, you're less likely to encounter crowds at swimming pools, beaches, resorts, restaurants, and shops. Especially in St. Thomas and St. Croix, a slower pace prevails in the off season, and you'll have a better chance to appreciate the local culture and cuisine. Of course, there are disadvantages to off-season travel, too: Many hotels use the slower months for construction and/or restoration, fewer facilities are likely to be open, and some hotels and restaurants may close completely when business is really slow.

Additionally, if you're planning a trip during the off season and traveling alone, ask for the hotel's occupancy rate -- you may want crowds. The social scene in both the B.V.I. and the U.S.V.I. is intense from mid-December to mid-April. After that, it slumbers a bit. If you seek escape from the world and its masses, summer is the way to go, especially if you aren't depending on meeting others.

Holidays

In addition to the standard legal holidays observed in the United States, U.S. Virgin Islanders also observe the following holidays: Three Kings' Day (Jan 6); Transfer Day, commemorating the transfer of the Danish Virgin Islands to the Americans (Mar 31); Organic Act Day, honoring the legislation that granted voting rights to the islanders (June 20); Emancipation Day, celebrating the freeing of the slaves by the Danish in 1848 (July 3); Hurricane Supplication Day (July 25); Hurricane Thanksgiving Day (Oct 17); Liberty Day (Nov 1); and Christmas Second Day (Dec 26). The islands also celebrate 2 carnival days on the last Friday and Saturday in April: Children's Carnival Parade and the Grand Carnival Parade.

In the British Virgin Islands, public holidays include the following: New Year's Day, Commonwealth Day (Mar 12), Good Friday, Easter Monday, Whitmonday (sometime in July), Territory Day Sunday (usually July 1), Festival Monday and Tuesday (during the first week of Aug), St. Ursula's Day (Oct 21), Birthday of the Heir to the Throne (Nov 14), Christmas Day, and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Passport is required for U.S. Citizens visiting the U.S. Virgin Islands. For non-U.S. citizens, visiting the U.S. Virgin Islands is just like visiting the mainland United States: You need a passport and visa.

A passport is necessary for all visitors to the British Virgin Islands (including citizens of the U.K.).

For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov/foreignentryreqs.html.

U.S. Entry: Passport Required -- New regulations issued by the Homeland Security Department now require virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. to show a passport -- and future regulations will cover land and sea entry as well. As of January 23, 2007, all persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean (but not including the U.S. Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico), and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Similar regulations for those traveling by land or sea (including ferries) are expected as early as January 1, 2008. If you're a U.S. citizen and you travel directly to the U.S.V.I. and do not visit the British Virgin Islands, you do not need a passport. If you return to the mainland U.S. from the U.S.V.I. through another country (Mexico or Bermuda, for example), you will need a passport to get back home.

Passport Savvy -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee. When traveling, safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place like a money belt and keep a copy of the critical pages with your passport number in a separate place. There are no foreign consulates in the Virgin Islands, so if you lose your passport, go to the local police station.

Visas

The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries (at press time) to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they will need to show passports and proof of residence, however. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. (You can identify an e-Passport by the symbol on the bottom center cover of your passport.) If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if it is a valid passport issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to www.travel.state.gov/visa.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the United States, and (2) a tourist visa, which may be obtained without charge from any U.S. consulate.

As of January 2004, many international visitors traveling on visas to the United States will be photographed and fingerprinted on arrival at Customs in airports and on cruise ships in a program created by the Department of Homeland Security called US-VISIT. Exempt from the extra scrutiny are visitors entering by land or those (mostly in Europe) that don't require a visa for short-term visits. For more information, go to the Homeland Security website at www.dhs.gov/dhspublic.

U.S. Citizens, E.U. Citizens, Canadians, Australians, New Zealanders, and South Africans do not require a visa to enter the British Virgin Islands. If you are traveling through the U.S. but your final destination is the B.V.I. you may still need to travel with a visa, according U.S. entry requirements.

Visa requirements are not exactly the same for the B.V.I. as they are for the U.K. A full list of countries that require a visa for entry to the B.V.I. and more information on obtaining a visa can be found on the B.V.I. Immigration website at www.bviimmigration.gov.vg.

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States. If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you -- smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in the U.S.

For HIV-positive visitors, requirements for entering the United States are somewhat vague and change frequently. For up-to-the-minute information, contact AIDSinfo (tel. 800/448-0440 or 301/519-6616 outside the U.S.; www.aidsinfo.nih.gov) or the Gay Men's Health Crisis (tel. 212/367-1000; www.gmhc.org).

The U.S. Virgin Islands are increasingly popular as a wedding venue. Each island boasts wedding consultants who work hand-in-glove with resort hotels, and take care of everything from airline tickets to flowers. Although there are some independent small consultants, we have found that the best deals are arranged by a specialist at one of the resort hotels. Our favorites include Vera Payne at Caneel Bay on St. John (tel. 340/776-6111), Luza Gutierrez at Frenchman's Reef & Morning Star Marriott Beach Resort on St. Thomas (tel. 800/FOR-LOVE; www.weddingsinparadise.vi), and Candy McGinley at the Buccaneer on St. Croix (tel. 800/255-3881 or 340/773-2100).

Marrying in the U.S. Virgin Islands -- No blood tests or physical examinations are necessary, but there is a $50 license fee, a $50 notarized application, and an 8-day waiting period, which is sometimes waived, depending on circumstances. Civil ceremonies before a judge of the territorial court cost $200 each; religious ceremonies performed by clergy are equally valid. Fees and schedules for church weddings must be negotiated directly with the officiant. More information is available from the U.S. Virgin Islands Deparatment of Tourism, 1270 Ave. of the Americas, New York, NY 10020 (tel. 800/372-USVI or 212/332-2222; www.usvitourism.vi). The guide Getting Married in the U.S. Virgin Islands is distributed by U.S.V.I. tourism offices; it gives information on all three islands, including wedding planners, places of worship, florists, and limousine services. It also provides a listing of island accommodations that offer in-house wedding services.

Couples can apply for a marriage license for St. Thomas or St. John by contacting the Superior Court of the Virgin Islands, P.O. Box 70, St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00804 (tel. 340/774-0640). For weddings on St. Croix, contact the Territorial Court of the Virgin Islands, Family Division, P.O. Box 929, Christiansted, St. Croix, U.S.V.I. 00821 (tel. 340/773-1130).

Marrying in the British Virgin Islands -- There's no requirement of island residency, but a couple must apply for a license at the attorney general's office, and stay in the B.V.I. for at least 3 days while the paperwork is processed. You'll need to present a passport or original birth certificate and photo identification, plus certified proof of your single marital status, including any divorce or death certificates pertaining to former spouses. Two witnesses must accompany the couple. The license fee is $110. Local registrars will perform marriages, or you can choose your own officiant. For information and an application for a license, contact the Registrar's Office, P.O. Box 418, Road Town, Tortola, B.V.I. (tel. 284/494-3701 or 284/494-3492).

Commitment Ceremonies for Gay & Lesbian Travelers

When there's a request for a commitment ceremony on St. Croix, all eyes turn to The Palms at Pelican Cove, a former "gay but straight-friendly" resort which, under new owners, still thoughtfully maintains an open attitude amongst its diverse guests.

Ceremonies are usually performed at sunset, on a photogenic stretch of white-sand beach. From there, it's an easy walk to the bar and restaurant for after-ceremony celebrations. The Palms has access to three or four spiritualists/theologians, one of whom is a sea captain. The commitment ceremonies are not legally binding, and their legalities have not yet been tested in the courts.

The U.S. Virgin Islands are duty-free ports, which means many goods imported to the islands are not subject to import taxes and therefore can be sold at a discount. Shoppers can take advantage of the duty-free bargains, but only up to a limit prescribed by their government. St. Thomas and St. Croix, with their fabled duty-free deals, are the top shopping destinations in the entire Caribbean.

On leaving the U.S.V.I., everyone (including Americans) must clear Customs. In the British Virgin Islands (which aren't duty-free ports), there is a Customs review upon entry; there is no review upon exit, unless officials have reason to believe there should be one.

If you're in the market for a particular item, it's wise to check the price at home before you go. Sometimes even the duty-free items on the islands can be bought just as cheaply at home.

Theoretically, bargaining is not the rule on the islands, but over the years we have found merchant after merchant willing to do so, particularly on expensive items, such as jewelry and perfume. The slow summer, late spring, and fall seasons are the best times to try to make deals with local vendors.

In general, the shopping scene in the B.V.I. pales in comparison to that of St. Croix and St. Thomas. The smart shopper will still, however, find some good buys in Road Town, Tortola, usually on British fabrics, china, and other goods.

Best Buys in the U.S. Virgin Islands

The best buys are liquor (because of the generous U.S. allowance), jewelry, and china. You may find bargains on crystal, certain clothing, beauty items, porcelain, leather goods, watches, and even furs. Cigarettes are also cheaper.

In clothing, the best buys are woolen items, such as sweaters. Cashmere sweaters are also sometimes good values. Also look for fashions from China and Europe along with U.S. designer labels. But remember, you may find the same (or better) discounts back on the mainland.

Jewelry is the most common item for sale in St. Thomas. Look carefully over the selections of gold and gemstones (emeralds are traditionally considered the finest savings). Gold that is marked 24K in the United States and Canada is marked 999 (or 99.9% pure gold) on European items. Gold marked 18-karat in the United States and Canada has a European marking of 750 (or 75% pure), and 14-karat gold is marked 585 (or 58.5% pure). You can also often get deals on name-brand watches, which are sold throughout Charlotte Amalie and, to a lesser degree, on St. Croix.

When shopping for porcelain and crystal, the best European brands are usually priced lower than in the States; it pays to know what the going rate is at home before you leave. Most stores will arrange for items to be shipped.

The most popular island-made items include leather sandals, paintings, island dolls, locally made clothing, pottery, boutique canvas bags, locally recorded music, straw products, batiks, and unusual, handmade jewelry.

February

Annual St. Croix International Regatta. Held at the St. Croix Yacht Club on Teague Bay, this 3-day regatta celebrates its 14th year in 2007. Although a rather minor regatta, it draws serious yachties from the B.V.I., the U.S.V.I., and Florida. Call St. Croix Yacht Club at tel. 340/773-9531 or visit www.stcroixyc.com for details. Mid-February.

March

International Rolex Cup Regatta. This is one of three regattas in the Caribbean Ocean Racing Triangle (CORT) series. Top-ranked international racers come to St. Thomas to compete in front of the world's yachting press. The St. Thomas Yacht Club hosts the 3-day event. Call tel. 340/775-4701 or visit www.rolexcupregatta.com. Late March.

April

B.V.I. Spring Regatta. This is the third of the CORT events. A range of talents, from the most dedicated racers to bareboat crews out for "rum and reggae," participate in the 4-day race. Contact the B.V.I. Spring Regatta Committee, P.O. Box 200, Road Town, Tortola, B.V.I. (tel. 284/494-3286; www.bvispringregatta.org). Early April.

Virgin Gorda Easter Festival. Easter weekend is a big event on Virgin Gorda, featuring street parades, a beauty pageant, and nonstop partying. There is no number to call for information -- just arrive on Good Friday, Holy Saturday, or Easter Sunday, and you should have no trouble finding the party. Easter weekend.

Virgin Islands Carnival. This annual celebration on St. Thomas, with origins in Africa, is the most spectacular and fun carnival in the Virgin Islands. "Mocko Jumbies," people dressed as spirits, parade through the streets on stilts nearly 20 feet high. Steel and fungi bands, "jump-ups," and parades are part of the festivities. Over the years, interestingly, the festivities have become more and more Christianized. Events take place islandwide, but most of the action is on the streets of Charlotte Amalie. For information, call tel. 340/776-3112 or visit www.vicarnival.com for a schedule of events. After Easter.

July

Carnival in St. John. The elements of Carnival are combined with emancipation and independence celebrations in this festive event, which culminates on July 4 with a big parade. Thousands of St. Thomas residents flock to St. John for the parades, calypso bands, colorful costumes, and events leading up to the selection of Ms. St. John and the King of the Carnival. Call the St. John tourist office at tel. 340/776-6201 for more details. First week of July.

August

B.V.I. Emancipation Celebrations. Many visitors from other Caribbean islands hop over to Road Town, in Tortola, for this 2-week party. Join locals as they dance to fungi and reggae bands, and take part in the Emancipation Day Parade and other carnival activities and festivities. For information, call the B.V.I. Tourist Board Office at tel. 284/494-3134. Early August.

U.S. Virgin Islands Open/Atlantic Blue Marlin Tournament. This prestigious St. Thomas-centered charity event (proceeds go to the Boy Scouts) is also eco-friendly -- trophies are based on the number of blue marlin caught, tagged, and released. The tournament is open to anyone who's interested, and sport fishers come from around the world to participate. For more information, call the VI Council of the Boy Scouts of America at tel. 888/234-7484 or 340/775-9500; www.abmt.vi. Late August (weekend closest to the full moon).

December

Christmas in St. Croix. This major event launches the beginning of a 12-day celebration that includes Christmas Day, Christmas Second Day (Dec 26), New Year's Eve (called "Old Year's Day"), and New Year's Day. It ends on January 6, the Feast of the Three Kings, with a parade of flamboyantly attired merrymakers. For information, call the U.S. Virgin Islands Department of Tourism office in Christiansted at tel. 340/773-0495.

A high percentage of Caribbean cruises make at least one stop in the Virgin Islands. Charlotte Amalie in St. Thomas is the most popular port, followed by historic Frederiksted in St. Croix, and Road Town in Tortola.

Miami is the cruise capital of the world, but ships also leave from San Juan, New York, Port Everglades, and other points. Most cruise ships travel at night, arriving the following morning at ports of call, where passengers can go ashore for sightseeing and shopping.

Which Cruise Line is for You?

Once you've decided that a cruise to the Virgin Islands is right for you, you'll need to choose your cruise line. Two helpful resources for choosing a cruise line are Frommer's Cruises & Ports of Call (Wiley Publishing, Inc.) and Cruise Vacations for Dummies (Wiley Publishing, Inc.). Below you'll find a rundown of various ships cruising the Virgin Islands.

Carnival Cruise Lines (tel. 888/CARNIVAL; www.carnival.com) offers affordable vacations on some of the biggest and most brightly decorated ships afloat. It's the richest, boldest, brashest, and most successful mass-market cruise line in the world. Its boats leave from Miami, Tampa, New Orleans, Mobile, Port Canaveral, and San Juan, and stop over at selected ports throughout the eastern and western Caribbean, including St. Thomas, St. Lucia, San Juan, St. Martin, Barbados, Martinique, Grand Cayman, and Jamaica. Most of its cruises offer good value, last from 4 to 8 days, and feature nonstop activities, lots of glitter, and the hustle and bustle of armies of passengers and crew members embarking and disembarking at every port.

Celebrity Cruises (tel. 877/202-4345; www.celebrity-cruises.com) maintains 10 medium-to-large ships offering cruises of between 7 and 11 nights to such ports as Key West, San Juan, Grand Cayman, St. Thomas, Ocho Rios, Antigua, and Cozumel, Mexico, among others. The line is unpretentious and classy (several notches above mass-market), but offers pricing that's nonetheless relatively competitive. Accommodations are roomy and well equipped, and the cuisine is among the most refined on the seas.

Princess Cruises (tel. 800/PRINCESS; www.princess.com) places more emphasis on luxury living on a mass scale than any other line afloat. The company's ships usually carry fewer passengers than similarly sized vessels on other lines. Cruises last between 7 and 15 days, and include stops at such islands as Aruba, Barbados, Caracas, Dominica, Grenada, St. Lucia, St. Martin, St. Kitts, and St. Thomas.

Royal Caribbean International (tel. 866/562-7625; www.royalcaribbean.com) leads the industry in the development of megaships. This mainstream, mass-market cruise line encourages a restrained house-party atmosphere that's somehow a bit less frenetic than that of other "party-style" cruise lines. Though accommodations and accouterments are more than adequate, they are not upscale, and cabins aboard some of the line's older vessels tend to be a bit more cramped than the industry norm. Using Miami, San Juan, or Fort Lauderdale as their home ports, Royal Caribbean ships call regularly at such ports as St. Thomas, San Juan, Ocho Rios, St. Martin, Grand Cayman, St. Croix, and Curacao. Most of the company's cruises last for 7 days, although some weekend jaunts from San Juan to St. Thomas are available for 3 nights.

Seabourn Cruise Line (tel. 800/929-9391; www.seabourn.com) is an upscale, expensive outfit known for luxurious, small-scale ships. Its deluxe Seabourn Legend and Seabourn Pride spend from 10 to 14 days sailing the eastern Caribbean, leaving from Fort Lauderdale. There are more activities than you'd expect aboard such relatively small ships (10,000 tons), and an absolutely amazing amount of onboard space per passenger. Cuisine is superb, served within a dining room that's unapologetically formal.

How to Get the Best Deal on Your Cruise

Cruise lines operate like airlines, setting rates for their cruises and then selling them in a rapid-fire series of discounts, offering almost whatever it takes to fill their ships. Because of this, great deals come and go in the blink of an eye, and most are available only through travel agents.

If you have a travel agent you trust, leave the details to him or her. If not, try contacting a travel agent who specializes in booking cruises. Some of the best agencies include: Cruises Inc., 1415 NW 62nd St., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 (tel. 888/218-4228; www.cruisesinc.com); CruisesOnly, 100 Sylvan Rd., Suite 600, Woburn, MA 01801 (tel. 800/278-4737; www.cruisesonly.com); The Cruise Company, 10760 Q St., Omaha, NE 68127 (tel. 800/289-5505; www.thecruisecompany.com); Kelly Cruises, 1315 W. 22nd St., Suite 105, Oak Brook, IL 60523 (tel. 800/837-7447; www.kellycruises.com); Hartford Holidays Travel, 129 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, NY 11596 (tel. 800/828-4813; www.hartfordholidays.com); and Mann Travel and Cruises, 4400 Park Rd., Charlotte, NC 28209 (tel. 866/591-8129; www.manntravelandcruises.com).

A Few Money-Saving Tips --

• Book early: You can often get considerable savings on a 7-day cruise by booking early. Ask a travel agent or call the cruise line directly.

• Book an inside cabin: If you're trying to keep costs down, ask for an inside cabin (one without a window). They're often the same size and offer the same amenities as the more expensive outside cabins. If you're planning on using the space only to sleep, who needs natural light during the day?

• Take advantage of senior discounts: The cruise industry offers some discounts to seniors (usually defined as anyone age 55 or older), so don't keep your age a secret. Membership in AARP, for example, can net you substantial discounts; always ask your travel agent about these types of discounts when you're booking.

• Don't sail alone: Cruise lines base their rates on double occupancy, so solo passengers usually pay between 150% and 200% of the per-person rate. If you're traveling alone, most lines have a program that allows two solo passengers to share a cabin.